Candy Bar Lab

Sky Bars are manufactured by NECCO, New England Confectionary Company, which I associate with NECCO wafers — the worst candy ever made (one of the flavors is clove! yuck…). I learned never to eat them again after I first tasted one around 1987. So I’m hoping that NECCO’s Sky Bar turns out to be a lot better than those terrible chalky wafers.

Structure
A molded, milk chocolate bar with four segments - each with a different filling (caramel, vanilla cream, peanut butter, and chocolate fudge).

Texture
All of the fillings are soft and pretty similar in consistency.  The caramel and vanilla fillings are noticeably granular - not pleasant. There’s really no excuse for having sugar crystals in a finished product, especially in a product like caramel, which should be silky. The peanut butter filling was surprisingly the smoothest of the bunch, which is kind of weird because peanut butter doesn’t need to be smooth - it can be a little more coarse and crunchy and still be good.

Taste
When I first tried the peanut butter filling, I thought it was the caramel filling.  It doesn’t taste like peanut butter. With my second bite, I could make out a little bit of the peanut flavor. If you’re expecting it to be anything like a Reese’s peanut butter cup, you’d be way off.

The vanilla filling is forgettable. I really wish it had been marshmallow filling. Instead, it’s too sweet - like the inside of a Cadbury creme egg.

The caramel center is slightly salty, but has no deep, caramel flavor like I would prefer.

The chocolate fudge filling is my favorite. It tastes like brownie batter, which to me, is a good thing. I love licking the spoon after making brownies. Like the other fillings, it’s more sugary and sweet than anything. It could have been a more intense chocolate flavor, but it was good enough.

Verdict
The concept of four different fillings in one candy bar is cool.  If executed well it would be really good but this bar is not well done.  The chocolate is sub par and none of the fillings are very good (though I did kind of like the chocolate fudge). It’s a classic example of a product that does a little bit of everything, but doesn’t do anything particularly well. If NECCO were to combine the classic name and branding of the Sky Bar with high quality product and good execution, this could become a thumbs up.

I’ve been telling people for a while that I make candy bars. However, I’m not sure everyone believed me. While I’ve eaten my own creations and frequently shared with my girlfriend and family, I hadn’t shared with many others (namely, my co-workers). So, I decided I was going to make some to bring into the office. The one that seemed to be the biggest hit was the Peanut Butter Caramel Peanut Bar shown below. I know… that’s not a very creative name, but I was just going for something descriptive, not catchy.

Here’s how I made it.

Step 1: Making Peanut Butter Caramel
Start by making a batch of soft caramel. Once you’re done, let it sit for a few minutes to cool down a little. Then, mix in a half cup of creamy, natural peanut butter. Let it melt and stir gently to fully incorporate.

Step 2: Preparing Peanuts
I used three different versions of peanuts - all derived from the same jar of dry-roasted, unsalted peanuts. First, I chopped about 1/4 cup in a nut chopper. Second, I left about 1/4 cup untouched. Third, I baked 1/3 cup at 350 degrees on a baking for about 10 minutes that had been coated in a slurry of water, sugar, and salt. When I was done, I mixed all of these together with the Peanut Butter Caramel and let sit until it was at room temperature.

Step 3: Tempering Chocolate
You must temper chocolate. Otherwise it’ll be soft, grainy, and discolored. I won’t get into the specifics of how to do it here, but there are a ton of resources available on the internet that will help you figure it out. Here’s a good place to start.

Note: I used dark chocolate, but milk chocolate would have worked just as well.

Step 4: Assembly
The center is very soft, so I decided to use a mold to construct this bar. You’ll need something with a big enough cavity to fit the caramel and peanuts. I have one about the size of a regular Snickers bar, so I went with that. Coat each cavity of the mold the tempered chocolate. I’ve seen recommendations to use a pastry brush, but I prefer to use a small spoon and gravity to evenly coat everything. If there’s excess chocolate in a cavity, either let it pour out or coerce it out with the spoon. Once the cavities are lined, let the chocolate sit until it has hardened enough to be filled.

The center at room temperature is almost the consistency of cookie dough, though a little softer. I took out about a tablespoon of filling and rolled it first into a ball and then into a log about the length of the bar. I pressed this down lightly into the mold, so it filled in all of the space. After a couple of bars, you’ll get a sense for how much it takes to fill the mold.

Finally, after you’ve filled all the molds with the peanut butter caramel, top each one with a small spoonful of tempered chocolate. I used an offset spatula to smooth everything down, so it was flush with the mold. Let the bars sit for while until everything sets up and they’re ready to be unmolded.

Here in the US, Kit Kat bars are manufactured by Hershey’s. In the UK (which is where this bar is from), Nestlé makes them. This is a little red flag for me because I tend not to like Nestlé chocolate. On the other hand, I like plain Kit Kat bars and this version has peanut butter. So in theory, I should really like this candy bar.

Structure
The center consists of creme filled wafer covered on the top and one side with creamy peanut butter - all contained within molded milk chocolate.

Texture
The chocolate covering is quite thick, which is par for the course with these large single stick Kit Kat bars. Surprisingly, the wafer wasn’t the same as what I’m used to in American Kit Kats. It was lighter and not as crispy as I expected. The peanut butter is smooth and creamy, which works well with the wafer center. All together, not a bad texture; certainly better than it’s American caramel cousin.

Taste
The chocolate is a bit bland (I mentioned earlier that I’m not a huge fan of Nestlé chocolate) and the wafers don’t add any flavor. That leaves the peanut butter to save the day. Unfortunately, it does not. I don’t know how to accurately describe it, but the peanut butter tasted funny. Maybe it was too much artificial vanilla or maybe just too much sugar. Whatever it was, it just didn’t taste quite right to me.

Verdict
This was an acceptable candy bar (it’s chocolate and peanut butter after all), but I was underwhelmed. There are a lot Reese’s products I would reach for before this one.