Candy Bar Lab

On a recent trip to London, one of my friends was nice enough to pick up some bars that I generally can’t find here in the US. The first of these bars that I’m digging into is the Kinder Bueno; but first, a few interesting facts about this product…

• “Kinder” is the German word for “children”. “Bueno” means “good” in Spanish.
• Kinder products are produced by Ferrero, the makers of Nutella.
• My mom thinks these bars are “wonderful”.

Structure
The package contains two small bars, each with four wafer pockets filled with hazelnut cream. The whole bars are enrobed in a thin layer of milk chocolate and drizzled with dark chocolate.

Texture
When you pick this product up, you’ll instantly notice how light and delicate it is. In fact, both bars came to me slightly broken from their overseas trip in a suitcase. The wafers are crispy and the cream filling is really light and smooth. I’ve tried similar products with cream centers that are dry and chalky. This is nothing like that. It’s closer to whipped cream. Kinder Bueno also get points from me for a nicely tempered chocolate coating.

Taste
I hadn’t actually paid attention to the packaging that states “Milk and Hazelnut” as the flavors and shows a tall glass of milk next to the bars. I usually think of milk as a base, not a flavor. But as I was tasting this bar, I really picked up on the milk flavor. The hazelnut was tertiary, behind both the chocolate and milk flavors. Overall, the flavors are very subtle. The wafers are mostly flavor-neutral, but the thin chocolate layer is surprisingly good.

Verdict
This is getting a big thumbs up from me. I could eat six of these in one sitting. The only knock (and its hypothetical one) is that it might be better with pieces of chopped hazelnuts in it.

This is the type of caramel you’d find in Twix or Snickers.

If you’ve ever researched caramel recipes, you may have come across some like this. I’m not a fan of this method. In fact, I don’t even consider it real caramel because the sugar never actually caramelizes. Instead, this method relies on vanilla extract for flavor and gets it’s color only from the Maillard reaction of the heated amino acids in the cream and butter.

The recipe below is darker in color with a fuller flavor, yet remains soft and won’t stick to your teeth.

Ingredients
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup corn syrup
• 1/2 cup water
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 tbsp salt

Equipment
• 2 or 3 quart, heavy-bottomed pot
• candy thermometer
• whisk

Step 1: Prep
Get all of your ingredients out and measure everything ahead of time. We’ll move quickly through the last step, so you won’t have time to measure then. Also, it helps to cut the butter into four 1-tbsp pieces and mix the salt into the cream.

Step 2: Caramelize the sugars
In the pot, mix the sugar, corn syrup, and water over low heat with a whisk until the sugar is completely dissolved. Raise heat to high and boil mixture up to 315° F. Remove from heat and swirl the pot gently. You’ll notice the mixture start to darken a bit. The residual heat will bump the temperature to 320° F, the point of caramelization for sucrose.

Step 3: Incorporate the fats
If we stopped at this point and let the mixture cool, we would have a hard mass of dark sugar. To turn this into the soft caramel we’re looking for, we need to introduce some fat (i.e. the cream and butter). Drop the butter pieces into the pot and whisk until the butter is incorporated. Next, pour in the salted cream and again, whisk until blended. Note: The butter and cream both have water, so they will cause the pot to bubble up and release very hot steam. Make sure to wear an oven mitt to protect your hands and forearms.

Step 4: Cool
The caramel will thicken as it cools. If you’ve done everything correctly though, it should remain soft and gooey at room temperature.